Of France, Spain, and Finding Paradise
Well, the day started out on a bit of a sour note. The hotel breakfast was definitely not worth the cash. I really should have just saved my money and popped into a supermarket for a pastry and a coffee. To top it off, my sat nav seemed to have a personal vendetta against me, only showing me truck gas stations that exclusively sold diesel. I decided to risk it and just get fuel on the way, which worked out in the end, but I was cutting it pretty close for a while there. Oh well, no risk, no fun, right? At least the weather was on my side – super sunny with a slight breeze. Just perfect for a long day on the bike.
It’s funny how quickly you fall back into old routines. Packing up and strapping my bags to the motorcycle felt like second nature, a muscle memory from my last big trip a couple of years ago. I even found myself packing the bags in the exact same way. With about 500 kilometers ahead of me for the day, I was pretty strict with myself about taking breaks every 90 minutes. I didn’t feel like I needed them at first, but once the afternoon sun kicked in and the temperature climbed to 32°C, I was grateful for every single stop. Even in summer gear, you get hot, fast. My water bladder was an absolute lifesaver, letting me sip water on the go without having to pull over all the time.
The ride through the French countryside was beautiful in its own way, but also a bit sad. I saw a lot of buildings that were either falling apart or completely abandoned, which reminded me of some of the towns I’ve seen in eastern Germany. It had that same somber feel to it. Honestly, the route itself was mind-numbingly boring, just a straight line for what felt like an eternity. I was actually thankful when some traffic forced a change of plans and I got off the highway for a bit. Switching to a backroad didn’t chew up a lot of distance, but the change of scenery was exactly what I needed.
The moment I crossed into the greater San Sebastian area in Spain, everything changed. My mood instantly lifted. Even though every part of my body was aching by that point, seeing the stunning scenery made me forget all the pain for a little while.
But the best part was yet to come. The prices for a room in San Sebastian were just insane – we’re talking over 300 euros a night! So, I decided to skip the coast and head inland. I found a cute little town called Doneztebe and an amazing hostel with its own bar serving cold beer and small tapas. The ride to get there was something else entirely. The road wound through these lush, green mountains, and I just couldn’t find the words to describe how beautiful it was. I was in total awe, just soaking in the views of meandering streets that led into tunnels, which then opened onto bridges over incredible rivers. The whole area was dotted with charming houses and small towns built halfway up the mountainsides.
Arriving in Doneztebe, I was instantly in love. It’s a tiny place with super narrow streets, a river running right through the middle, and a breathtaking mountain view in the background. It was perfect. After a much-needed ice-cold shower, I popped out to a local shop for some fruit and sparkling water for the next day – I really missed that in France! Then, it was straight to the hostel bar where I inhaled a couple of beers and some delicious tapas. By 9 p.m., I was back in my room, completely exhausted and ready to crash. What a day. It was a long haul with a lot of exhaustion and pain, but it had the happiest of endings. I know I’ll be sleeping well tonight.
A Little More About Doneztebe
I couldn’t just pass through a place like Doneztebe without getting curious. It has this incredible energy, and I wanted to understand what made it tick. It turns out that its name tells part of the story. It’s officially known as both Doneztebe (the Basque name, meaning Saint Stephen) and Santesteban (its Spanish counterpart), which speaks to the deep cultural roots in this part of Navarre.
Those deep roots are tied to the land itself. The town is the heart of the ridiculously green Malerreka valley, and the reason everything is so lush is that it sits right where two rivers meet. This has made it the natural hub for the entire area for centuries, which you can feel in its historic stone buildings and lively town center.
And it’s still a hub today, especially for anyone looking to explore the outdoors. I learned there’s a Vía Verde, a greenway path that follows an old railway line along the river, that I imagine would be an amazing walk or cycle. It really feels like one of those perfect bases for a deeper dive into the region, not just a beautiful place to spend a night.
Impressions
